I’m in
Vancouver, BC once again visiting my immediate family but sadly also to attend
a memorial service for an uncle (one of my father’s siblings) who passed away
last month. As is now my custom when I travel to and from Vancouver, I made the
trip by train, taking advantage of the Amtrak Cascades passenger
service. As I mentioned on one of my previous trips, I simply find riding the rails to
be the most pleasant way to go—less stress-inducing than driving or flying, and
better for the environment.
The Cascades line links
communities along the 467-mile corridor between Eugene and Vancouver. According
to Wikipedia, it is Amtrak's eighth-busiest route with a total annual
ridership of over 810,000. (1) Train
service between Seattle and Portland—which became the core of the Cascades route—was operated as a partnership by the Northern Pacific, Great Northern, and Union Pacific railways from 1925 to 1970, with the
three railroads cross-honoring tickets on their Seattle-Portland routes. When
Great Northern and Northern Pacific were folded into the Burlington
Northern in 1970, the reconfigured
partnership continued to operate the Seattle-Portland service until the
creation of Amtrak in 1971. Service between Vancouver, BC and Seattle was
provided via the Great Northern/Burlington Northern International,
and between Portland and Eugene by Southern Pacific.
Today, there are 18
stops along the Cascades route. The rail companies built the now
historic station buildings during the period when rail travel reigned supreme, between
the late 1800s and the Great Depression. The buildings in the larger
cities—Portland, Seattle, and Vancouver—are suitably grand and centrally
located, serving as they did as a hub or terminus for several railroads. Though
modest, the smaller stations possess ample character, and were equally anchors
around which the towns grew during the first part of the 20th
century. The population of the town and projected
ridership typically determined depot size, layout, and construction materials;
detailing could be adjusted based on available materials and local preferences.
The point of this blog
post is to feature the station buildings along the Cascades route;
however, I’ll only describe the ones from Eugene to Seattle, as well as
Vancouver’s Pacific Central Station. This is because I typically transfer to a
“thruway” bus for the Seattle to Vancouver leg of my trips north and back.
Amtrak limits the number of trainsets that travel the full distance, presumably
because the demand doesn’t yet exist to warrant extending rail service for
every scheduled Cascades run. Unfortunately for me, the scheduling of
the trains that do make the full cross-border journey has never been as
convenient as I’d prefer.
During
this trip north, I came across the Great American Stations website. Amtrak established the Great
American Stations project in 2006 to educate communities on the benefits of
redeveloping train stations, offer tools to community leaders to preserve their
depots, and provide the appropriate Amtrak resources. The website is a treasure
trove of information about all the stations Amtrak serves today, regardless of
whether they’re majestic and richly embellished or unpretentious and spare of
trim. Unless noted otherwise, the images included here all come from Great
American Stations. I heavily borrowed from the website’s written
descriptions, only lightly paraphrasing or editing as suitable. I encourage you
to check out Great American Stations if you’re at all a rail afficionado—it
is an essential resource on the subject.
Eugene Station
Eugene
Eugene’s
brick train station is the third built on the spot: in 1908, with the city
booming, local business leaders lobbied Southern Pacific to build the current
depot. It is an amalgam of several styles, though primarily consists of simple
forms and designed for utility. Its low horizontal appearance, wide eave
overhangs, large wooden brackets, tall double-hung windows and diamond-paned
dormers are reminiscent of the Craftsman style. The red brick construction and
semi-circular bay window facing the track are characteristic of the
Richardsonian Romanesque aesthetic. The city and the railroad shared the
$40,000 cost of this project. Both the depot and the park that originally surrounded
it were part of the City Beautiful movement of the early 20th
century.
Southern
Pacific sold the building to the Jenova Land Company in 1993. The city of
Eugene bought the depot and the office/bunkhouse in 2003 as part of a plan to
develop a regional transportation center, subsequently overseeing a $4.5
million restoration. Workers repaired the exterior brickwork and trim, and
gutted and renovated the 5,346-square-foot interior, installing tile floors,
oak and fir trim, covered ceilings, new wooden benches and expanded restrooms.
Albany Station
Albany
The Southern Pacific
Railroad constructed the masonry Albany station 1909. It is one of the oldest
continuously used passenger rail stations in the United States. After
purchasing the building in 2003, the City of Albany restored and expanded the facility,
removing vacant commercial buildings, installing landscaping, constructing a
new parking lot, adding period lighting, and providing a plaza and waiting area.
A combination of federal, state, local, and Amtrak funds covered the initial
$11.3 million restoration cost. The City rededicated the building on April 18,
2006.
In December of 2006,
construction began on a 60-foot clock tower in the center of the roundabout at
the depot’s Lyon Street entrance. The tower spells out “Albany” in illuminated
letters and features two clocks donated by the Greater Albany Rotary Club.
Salem Station
Salem
The Southern Pacific
Railroad built the Salem station, opening it in 1918 as a replacement for a
wood- framed Queen Anne-style depot constructed in 1888. Southern Pacific
architect J.H. Christie designed the station, and Stebbinger Brothers of
Portland built it for $25,000. The Neoclassical masonry structure conveys the
idea of a “gateway to the city” with its double-height Ionic columns framing
large, arched Roman windows. The central pavilion dominates with its 1,500
square-foot main waiting room. Originally, smaller wings to both sides housed
ticketing, baggage, and a women’s waiting room. Decorative plasterwork, coved
corner entries, and terrazzo marble floor patterns add to the elegance of the
structure.
Famous visitors to the
station included presidents Woodrow Wilson and Warren G. Harding, future
presidents Franklin D. Roosevelt and Dwight D. Eisenhower, and former President
Herbert Hoover. Many of these presidential visits occurred as part of
whistle-stop campaigns during which the candidates traveled the country by
train.
The 1999 Salem Depot
Project—managed by the Oregon Department of Transportation (ODOT)—fully
rehabilitated the 1918 depot. The project restored ceilings and architectural
features, added a black marble ticket counter, and recreated two 30-inch globe
chandeliers from drawings of the originals. Federal and State grants funded the
$2.6 million renovation project. Later, in preparation for its centennial in
2018, the building received new paint inside and out; through paint analysis,
ODOT determined the original color scheme.
Oregon City Station
Oregon City
The Oregon City station
opened on April 16, 2004. It is presently limited to a platform and shelter,
though the city plans to move the old Southern Pacific depot building—currently
used as offices—to the newer site to use once again as the passenger station.
Portland Union Station
Portland, lobby view
Portland Union Station
Constructed in 1896, Portland
Union Station has been in continuous operation since that time. Though originally
built by the Northwest Pacific Terminal Company, the Northern Pacific, Union
Pacific, and Southern Pacific railroads jointly owned the facility. The
centerpiece of the Romanesque and Queen Anne architecture is the landmark
150-foot-tall tower with its four-sided clock. By 1922, every railroad
passenger train serving Portland utilized Union Station. Today, Portland Union
Station is situated in an area that boasts a variety of businesses and
attractions, making it an ideal arrival and departure point for people
interested in what the “’Rose City” has to offer. Portland Union Station was
added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1975.
Between 1927 and 1930,
the station’s interior received a major redesign. Eliminating an entire
mezzanine level expanded the main waiting hall. Italian marble was added to the
walls and the floor. Dormers were added to the exterior to permit more natural
light to enter the station. In 1948, the blue and gold neon “Go by Train” and
“Union Station” lights on the exterior were installed and remain operational
today.
In 1987, the Portland
Development Commission (PDC) purchased Union Station and 31 acres of former
rail yards. A subsequent rehabilitation of the station restored the painted
flower patterns of the waiting room’s ornate ceilings, reopened the 1920s era
phone booths, and repaired the red metal tile roof. The most recent change in
2003 was the addition of a central plaza at the main entryway containing an
island planted with local and native plants. The 2003 project changed access to
the station, created a new street, and established a thruway bus boarding area.
Union Station has anchored one end of the downtown Portland Transit Mall since
1994.
Vancouver, WA Station
Vancouver, WA
The Northern Pacific
Railroad constructed the wood frame Vancouver, WA depot in 1907. It is rather
unique in that passengers board north-south bound and east-west bound trains on
different sides of the building. Passengers board the Empire Builder on
the southeast side of the depot while the Coast Starlightand Amtrak
Cascades trains are boarded on the northwest side of the facility.
Partial renovations of
this facility were completed in 1988. Work resumed in 2008 when the Vancouver
City Council contracted with Skyward Construction of Ridgefield, WA for an
interior makeover, including electrical and mechanical upgrades and new
finishes. The 2008 restorations repaired the existing wall plaster, refinished
the original maple wood flooring, and provided custom-manufactured solid
Douglas fir doors. The project also replicated the building’s interior
wainscoting, bead board and trim patterns in the style of the early 1900s, down
to the mortise & tenon joints.
Kelso-Longview Station
Kelso-Longview
The area that became
Kelso, at the western foot of hills where the Cowlitz and Coweeman Rivers meet
the Columbia River, was inhabited by people of the Cowlitz Tribe when European
settlers arrived in 1855; members of that tribe still reside there today. In
1871-72, the Northern Pacific Railroad came to the Cowlitz Valley and built a short
one-track line from Kalama to Commencement Bay that later became part of the
transcontinental rail system. This line carried passengers and freight both
ways on the east bank of the Cowlitz. At that time, the stop was called
Crawfordville. In 1884, Peter Crawford, of Kelso, Scotland, officially founded
the town of Kelso. It was a rowdy place at first, catering to local loggers and
the lumber mills. In 1886, the Crawford family donated three and a half acres
for a station house, and a small wooden structure was built.
The townspeople
petitioned the Northern Pacific for a better passenger and freight depot in
1906. The company built the brick passenger and wooden freight depot, and the
town held a grand opening reception on February 12, 1912. Although the interior
of the building changed several times, the depot continues to serve the public
under Amtrak’s banner.
Centralia Station
Centralia
The Northern Pacific
Railroad opened Centralia depot in 1912. Spurred by the Burlington Northern and
Santa Fe Railroad merger, the City of Centralia and the Washington State
Department of Transportation (DOT) purchased the depot and began restorations
in 1996.
The City hired an
architectural firm experienced in historic restoration (Easters and Kittle of
Issaquah, WA) to work on the deteriorated building, platform, and parking lot. The
proposed improvements included seismic retrofits, HVAC upgrades, fire
suppression, enhanced utilities, and better lighting. The first phase of
construction consisted mainly of exterior work, and removed four tons of pigeon
residue from the attic. Additionally, the project replaced dormers, installed a
new tile roof, tuck-pointed the brick, and more.
The subsequent phase
restored the interior, providing a new terrazzo floor, stripped and varnished
woodwork, polished brass, and new tile. The restoration was completed in April
2002 amid celebrations of Centralia’s first annual Railroad Days event. The
total project cost was $4.4 million with funding from the city of Centralia,
the Washington State DOT (Rail Branch Division), the Washington State Office of
Archeology and Historic Preservation, the Washington State Transportation
Improvement Board, the Federal Highway Administration, and Amtrak.
Centennial Station, Olympia-Lacey
Centennial Station, Olympia-Lacey
During the 1970s and 1980s, Amtrak passengers used a wooden
shelter at East Olympia; however, this location was remote, lacked public
transportation access, and only offered inadequate parking and no restroom facilities.
The Amtrak Depot Committee formed in 1987 to search for a new site for the
station, ultimately succeeding in securing the donation of a four-acre parcel
in the Olympia suburb of Lacey from Thurston County.
The Amtrak Depot Committee built the Centennial Station in 1992. Architect
Harold E. Dalke designed the building, donating his work. Though Dalke’s design
for the 2,800 sf facility is reminiscent of a classic railway station, the
Centennial Station features modern electronics and airline-style information
signage, and monitors the platform and parking facility with video
surveillance. It also features energy-conserving construction. The decorative
corbels under the eaves, obtained from New Orleans, are 150-years old and made
of solid cypress.
The station is currently operated by volunteers under the
direction of the Amtrak Depot Committee. This dedicated group staffs the
station for all trains, assists passengers with ground transportation, assists
elderly and disabled patrons with train boarding and luggage, answers questions
and resolves problems for travelers. A Thurston County Sherriff’s Office is
also housed in the station.
Tacoma (current Amtrak station)
Tacoma Union Station
Tacoma Union Station
Rather than describe the
current Amtrak facility—a competent albeit uninspiring design—I’m choosing to
focus on its predecessor, the much more impressive Tacoma Union Station. Though
no longer a working railroad facility, Tacoma Union Station is a particularly
fine example of Beaux-Arts architecture, rehabilitated from 1990 to 1992 after
its purchase from the Union Pacific Railroad. The building’s focal point—its
ninety-foot-high central dome—still stands out on the Tacoma skyline. Clad in
copper and adorned with cartouches, the dome rests on a central pavilion with
large arched openings on either side. The exterior reinforced concrete is faced
with multi-colored red brick set in a Flemish-bond pattern with a limestone
base and ornamental detail. The entrance doors, of stained oak with bronze
hardware, are recessed within the arch on the western elevation. A large window
fills the arch above the doors.
Today, the rotunda
houses a collection of glass by renowned Tacoma artist Dale Chihuly. Suspended
from the ceiling, a 20-foot blue chandelier hangs, consisting of over 2,700
hand-blown glass globes. The facility is now used, together with nearby wings,
as the federal courthouse. The Tacoma Union Passenger Station was placed on the
National Register of Historic Places in 1974. The station and its surrounding
historic district have served as a focus for downtown revitalization since the
1990s.
Tukwila Station
Tukwila
The present
Tukwila station was dedicated on February 18, 2015 and is served by Sounder
commuter rail, Amtrak Cascades trains, and Sounder Transit and Metro Transit
buses. It includes two concrete platforms, covered waiting areas, pedestrian
underpass, bus transfer plaza, 390 parking spaces and bicycle storage racks and
lockers. Artwork by artist Sheila Klein, incorporating steel, lighting,
mirrored panels and shrubbery, creates a beacon for approaching travelers.
The $46 million facility
replaces temporary structures that opened in 2000 and remained in use while the
cities of Tukwila and Renton determined how a permanent station complex would
best fit into long-term transportation and development plans for the area.
Sound Transit provided most
of the funding, but the project also received federal transportation grants. These
included $4.6 in American Recovery and Reinvestment Act funds disbursed through
the Federal Transit Administration (FTA), $1.5 million in FTA Fixed Guideway
funds, and $7.4 million from the Federal Railroad Administration’s (FRA)
High-Speed Intercity Passenger Rail Program.
Seattle King Street Station
Seattle King Street Station, waiting room
Photo by ZhengZhou [CC BY-SA (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0)]
King Street Station, Seattle
King Street Station is a
crossroads for important downtown neighborhoods, including the Commercial,
International, and Stadium districts, as well as world-renowned Pioneer Square.
The Great Northern Railway built the station in 1906, replacing an earlier
station located on Railroad Avenue (today’s Alaskan Way). Designed by the firm
of Reed and Stem of St. Paul, MN, which was later involved with the building of
Grand Central Terminal in New York City, the station is composed of granite and
red brick with terra cotta and cast stone ornamentation.
The building was part of
a larger project that moved the railroad main line away from the waterfront and
into a 5,245-foot long tunnel under downtown. Inspired by the bell tower of the
Piazza San Marco in Venice, the distinctive clock tower is a Seattle landmark;
it was the tallest structure in Seattle when it was built. In recognition of
its design integrity and important role within local railroad history, the King
Street Station was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1973.
Cosmetic renovations and
modernization of services began in 2003. New platform and entrance canopies and
brass fixtures were installed. Tall windows in the waiting room that were
covered over in the 1960s were replaced by new wood frame windows, and now
natural light floods the space. The interior makeover included the installation
of new mahogany entrance doors and marble cladding, painting, and the
restoration of its ornamental plasterwork.
In December of 2006, the
Seattle City Council formalized an agreement to purchase the station from the
Burlington Northern Santa Fe Railway for $1. Later revised to $10, the City and
the railway signed the contract on March 8, 2008. The purchase freed up funds
for further restoration, and the city devised a four-phase rehabilitation plan
to fully return the station to its original grandeur.
The multi-year station
rehabilitation project cost approximately $56 million. Funding largely came
through a diverse array of federal transportation grants obtained by the
Washington State Department of Transportation. The project received $7.5
million in Bus and Bus Facilities grants from the Federal Transit
Administration, $6 million in Transportation Enhancements grants through the
Federal Highway Administration, and $16.7 million through the Federal Railroad
Administration’s High Speed Intercity Passenger Rail program to support the
expanded passenger facilities and seismic retrofits. The balance of funding
came from voter-backed bonds, the State of Washington, Amtrak, and the National
Trust for Historic Preservation.
Pacific Central Station, Vancouver, BC
Pacific Central Station, lobby (my photo)
Pacific Central Station, Vancouver, B.C.
Pacific Central Station
is the northern terminus of the Amtrak Cascades route, for both its rail
and thruway bus services. It is also the terminus for VIA
Rail’s cross-country The Canadian. Designed by Pratt
and Ross, the Neoclassical Revival design was completed in 1919 for the
Canadian Northern Railway.
In 1993, the station was converted to a
multi-modal transportation facility that includes intercity buses; it stands
across Thornton Park from the Main Street/Science World Skytrain station. A bus
concourse has been added in the rear of the building. Since the Amtrak Cascades
crosses the border into the U.S., there is a customs area that passengers must
pass through to board the train.
Pacific Central Station was
dedicated on November 2, 1919, a day after the first trains began using the
station. It was originally named False Creek Station and was designed by the
architecture firm Pratt and Ross. The building was designated a heritage
railway station in 1991.
Amtrak service to the terminal was originally offered on the Pacific
International from 1972 to 1981, when it ceased due to budget cuts. Cross-border
service returned in 1995 with the introduction of the Mount Baker
International, which was later folded into the modern-day Cascades
brand.
On November 8, 2010, the Canadian government announced a CA$5.1-million
plan to rebuild parts of the station, including refurbishing windows, masonry,
and the roof of the building.
* * * * * *
I’m hopeful people will increasingly
come to appreciate the benefits and appeal of traveling by rail. I’m likewise
hopeful train stations will continue to assume a central role in the life of
the communities they serve. I’m optimistic, but I expect reliable, high-speed
service will soon become the norm along the Amtrak Cascades corridor.
When that occurs, the historic stations along the route will be assured of
their continued importance, life, and vibrancy.
The Great Depression
brought a close to most notable rail depot construction, the golden age of
passenger rail travel having passed with the rise of the automobile and
airlines. Thankfully, many of the stations from this bygone era remain standing
for us to appreciate. The monumental spaces and architectural flourishes of the
major buildings still induce craned necks and awe. The simpler, humbler forms
of the smaller stations similarly charm new generations of rail travelers. All
offer unique opportunities for renewal in cities and towns where prime real
estate is scarce. They are pieces of history, treasures we should not lose or
forget.
(1) I'm surprised the number isn't higher; the train is often full during each trip I've taken.