San Diego (U.S. Navy photo by Mass Communication Specialist 2nd Class Roland A. Franklin, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons)
I’m in San Diego this week(1), a city I’ve only previously skirted
rather than truly visited. Back in the mid‑1980s, when my wife and I lived in
Los Angeles, we made a couple of weekend trips south through here on our way to
Ensenada and Rosarito Beach. This is the first occasion I’ve spent any real
time in San Diego itself.
I visited the Salk Institute
on Friday, Louis Kahn’s research campus in La Jolla overlooking the Pacific.
I’ve known it mostly through photographs, drawings, and decades of
architectural reading. Seeing it in person clarified aspects that images only
suggest. The proportions, the material discipline, and the way the courtyard
aligns with the horizon all register more precisely in real life. It is a
building that rewards slow looking. I’ll write a separate post about the Salk,
and possibly more about San Diego, once I’m back home.
The rest of my time has been
spent moving around the city on foot and by transit. I’ve been taking in
districts shaped by coastal geography, postwar expansion, and the substantial
military presence that has influenced land use and employment patterns across
the region. Mid‑century research campuses occupy
the mesas above La Jolla, while older streetcar‑era neighborhoods such as North
Park, South Park, Hillcrest, Mission Hills, Golden Hill, and University Heights
extend inland. Large waterfront redevelopment projects stand next to long‑established
naval facilities. Dense pockets of urban fabric give way quickly to open views
and steep topography.
San Diego’s particular mix of
institutions, climate, and terrain gives it a character distinct from other
West Coast cities. The conditions here are not directly transferable to a place
like Eugene, but they echo patterns familiar to cities shaped by long‑term
civic forces. Infrastructure, geography, and institutional anchors shape a
region’s identity over generations. I’m grateful for the opportunity to spend a
few days here, studying a place I once only passed through.
(1) I
chose to visit San Diego now rather than during the AIA 2026 Conference on
Architecture & Design in June. During my trips to the 2018 and 2022 conferences in New
York and Chicago, I found I preferred spending my time exploring the cities
rather than attending the educational sessions. I also no longer need the CEUs.
Visiting now avoids the crowds associated with the conference and other
busy periods on the calendar.
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